We went on a three-week self-drive safari to Botswana, with the invaluable help of Tawana. Julie and Vincent guided us in putting together our itinerary, listening carefully to our wishes, and the result was exactly what we wanted.

After landing in Johannesburg, we picked up our vehicle, a Hilux off-road vehicle equipped for camping. Nothing to complain about, the vehicle was in good condition and well equipped with both camping and off-road equipment (GPS tracks 4 Africa, satellite phone, compressor, sand plates, hi-lift jack, tools, extra fuel tank, suitable tires, etc.). The briefing took two hours, and then we were off, feeling confident. During the trip, we noticed that other travelers had been much less well served than us, sometimes at the risk of their safety.

We had a wonderful vacation and have lots of stories and emotions to share: the charm of the Goo Moremi Gorge, searching for an elusive trail in the middle of Bodumatau Lagoon, surrounded by a huge herd of elephants, two baby elephants playing chase, the evening concert of hippos in Mbudi, cheeky monkeys stealing our picnic, the crossing of the fourth bridge, which really does not inspire confidence, the magnificent Victoria Falls, etc., etc….

We dream of going back, probably to Namibia or Zimbabwe.

Once we understood how GPS works and learned the pitfalls of the road, self-driving seemed like a great way to discover the country, giving us an exhilarating sense of freedom.

The advice and organization provided by Julie and Vincent from Tawana are top notch: the trip went off without a hitch, the stages were perfectly balanced, and we felt we could call on their experience if anything went wrong.

If you dream of this kind of trip but are hesitating, you can trust them: they provide 5-star service with remarkable simplicity and attention to detail.

And now, let’s look back at the best moments of our self-drive safari in Botswana!

1- Meeting a leopard, Tulis Wilderness

After our first night camping at Marakele Park, where we discovered the sounds of the night and saw our first giraffe, we crossed the border and arrived at Serolo Bush Camp in the Tuli Reserve for two nights in a furnished tent. We boarded the camp vehicle for our first safari. The Land Rover driver knew the reserve like the back of his hand and seemed to have a supernatural gift for spotting animals invisible to our eyes. Suddenly, a leopard appeared furtively in the tall grass. The driver began to maneuver to follow it. The animal’s coat blends into the vegetation, making it very difficult to follow and even more difficult to photograph. The leopard seems to take great pleasure in playing hide-and-seek with us, but at least we saw it, or at least caught a glimpse of it.

2- Camping in Kubu Island

What can be said about this magical place: a moment of vertigo before this infinite horizon.

3- Observing the zebra migration on Boteti River

We head to the Boteti River. After two hours on a sandy track, we arrive at the Boteti River, where it feels like Noah has called everyone together before boarding. Elephants, zebras, all kinds of antelope, hippos, crocodiles… The animals have come to drink at a watering hole.

4- An offended guest, Nxai Pan

Heading to South Camp, in Nxai Park. Following a misunderstanding between the driver and his navigator, we take the wrong track, the one with very deep sand. There aren’t many options for turning back, and if we stop, we’re not sure we’ll be able to start again, so we grit our teeth and set off (on the track) for an hour or so of gardening. The Toyota didn’t flinch, and when we reached the first junction, we headed for Baines Baobab, a magical place where a cluster of these gigantic trees dominates the Kudiakam plain.

Alone in the world, we eat there before heading to South Camp, on the right track this time, where we meet three French people: Yannick and Geneviève, who have lived in Kinshasa for several years and are very experienced on the tracks, and who have set off on a several-month journey through Southern Africa; and Marc, a lone self-driver whom Yannick and Geneviève helped out on the track.

Shortly before our arrival, Geneviève filmed an elephant intruding into the camp. More frightening than harmful, the elephant was still in the vicinity of the sanitary block when we arrived.

The moral of the story: when you invite someone for an aperitif, make sure you provide them with a seat that suits their body type.

5- Chaos in the cafeteria, Chobe River Front

Today, a short stop before arriving in Kasane, passing through the Chobe River Front reserve. It’s our last day of self-driving and we still haven’t seen a lion…

The Chobe gradually reveals its beauty before our ever-amazed eyes, even after three weeks of discovery. We stroll along the river, climb back up the hill, descend toward the river again, stopping in front of a herd of buffalo drinking, a crocodile basking in the sun, until we are intrigued by the sight of two jackals sharing the carcass of an antelope and defending their meal from a dozen vultures perched a few meters away.

In the distance, a herd of elephants cools off in the river.

Suddenly, one of the jackals moved away before all the vultures flew off abruptly. The second jackal also ran away. What was happening? The explanation quickly became clear: a lioness had seized the carcass and was carrying it off to a thicket to eat it! Then a second, a third, and a total of six lionesses settle down right before our eyes. And then, nonchalantly, His Majesty the King comes and lies down under a tree five meters from the car. We rejoice, not missing a moment of this spectacle.

In the background, the elephant patrol leaves its bathing pool, with Colonel Hathi bringing up the rear. Suddenly, two lionesses lounging under a tree get up and run away at full speed. Emerging from the vegetation, the colonel rushes toward us, trumpeting loudly… We think he wants to charge us and fear the worst, as the engine is off and we can’t make a quick getaway. He stares at us for a moment, as if asking to see our papers, then turns 90 degrees and resumes his charge toward the lions, who were probably a threat to the many baby elephants in the herd. We are transfixed by this spectacle, which ends well for everyone, with the elephants calmly walking away and the lions returning to their place in the shade without showing any particular emotion. As for the jackals and vultures, they must surely be ruminating on the law of the jungle that deprived them of a meal to their liking.

Published on: 30 July 2023