An extraordinary adventure, magnificent landscapes, animals beyond our wildest dreams, three countries and 4,000 km without a hitch. Over 2,000 photos, enriching encounters, a dash of adrenaline. Typical, well-appointed lodges and guesthouses, some of which were almost luxurious. And last but not least, flawless organization by Tawana, a complete travel file, and 24/7 assistance by phone or WhatsApp for any questions!

Another big thank you to Julie and Vincent, whom we had the pleasure of meeting in Maun!

Day 1: Pick up the Hilux in Windhoek
After two and a half hours of explanations from Antonio, we mastered the use of the high-lift jack and memorized the different pressures for sand roads, gravel roads, and tar roads. The tires were in perfect condition, so we were ready to hit the road. We met Ben from Villa Violet, who left the stress and constraints of Parisian life behind 17 years ago and explained his philosophy to us: here, we take our time!

Days 2-3: Namib Desert
After a few kilometers of asphalt… the trail! 1.8 bars, 4×4 mode, and off we go to Sossusvlei and through magnificent mountain landscapes to Solitaire. A herd of oryx awaits us at our lodge, where a trail takes us up high and offers a superb view of the Namib Desert.

At Sossusvlei, we tackle Dune 45, Big Daddy, and Deadvlei, testing the 4×4 in deep sand. You can feel the differential lock engage when the wheels spin… and it works! Climb Big Daddy via the crest of the dune, enjoy breathtaking views of Deadvlei, and experience a surprising descent through the sand! Leave early because after 10 a.m., it gets very hot in September!

Day 4-5: Swakopmund and Walvis Bay
Stop at Solitaire: it’s not a town, it’s a gas station, a garage, a lodge, a church, and a snack bar. The Namibian version of Roy’s Cafe on Route 66!
 And then the C14 road, if you remember the movie “The Wages of Fear”…

Encounter with sea lions by kayak and gymkhana in a Toyota Fortuner in the dunes in the afternoon, thrills guaranteed and a great driving lesson for the rest of the trip. Observation of sea lions, flamingos, cormorants, and jackals.

Day 6-7: Spitzkoppe and Grootberg
Visit the rock paintings at Bushmen’s Paradise and the arch at sunset with a guide from the campsite—it’s so nice to be guided!
Stop at Twyfelfontein to admire the rock engravings, even more impressive than Bushmen’s Paradise. Don’t miss the map of water points engraved in the rock! Lunch at Twyfelfontein Country Lodge, whose architecture blends beautifully into the ochre-colored rocky landscape.

Magnificent view of the valley from the Grootberg Lodge chalet located at an altitude of 1,500 meters. The rocky section of the mountain slope leading up to the lodge from the road is impressive but safe in dry weather!

Days 8-9-10: Etosha
We set off early if we want to take our time in the western part of Etosha. There are few tourists in this part, and we begin to encounter giraffes, herds of elephants, and… our first lioness, which is not easy to see, but some workers help us a little ;-) and our first black rhino.
Between the waterholes between Okaukuejo and Halali, we saw our first leopard!

Thanks to Vincent and Julie for choosing the self-drive option in Etosha: guided safaris feel like racing from waterhole to waterhole, in clouds of dust and with no regard for speed limits.

Last night at Mushara Bush Camp, a superb romantic dinner by the wood fire, woken at 1:30 a.m. by a loud roar and lion tracks found around the tent the next morning.

Days 11-12-13: Rundu and Divundu
A long and monotonous road, a necessary passage to the Caprivi Strip
In Divundu, we are surprised to find ourselves sleeping in a floating suite on the Okavango River, with hippos just a few meters from the terrace. Game drive in the Buffalo section of Bwabwata, which is more in line with our idea of a game drive with animal spotting.

Day 14: Dumela Botswana!
Arrival in the panhandle, a magnificent place with an incredible diversity of birds, a 3-hour individual cruise on the Okavango, bird watching, crocodiles, and an elephant taking a bath, letting us know that we are entering its territory!

Day 15: Maun
Unforgettable doorless helicopter flight over the delta, followed by drinks with our friendly organizers Julie and Vincent.

Days 16-17-18: Khwai
The road was blocked shortly after Mababe, so we took the only possible detour on the right and encountered the first very difficult passage, with a giraffe surely amused to see us struggling in the very deep sand.

Self-drive safari in the Magotho region along the Khwai River: lots of elephants, two leopards, an exceptional density of animals! One of the highlights of our trip was when we found ourselves stuck behind an elephant and her calf at dusk. After a long wait, we had to pass within a few meters of the behemoth and arrived at the lodge at night, but without incident! Phew!

Days 17-18-19: Chobe
A difficult track, especially the Savuti-Thobolo’s section with ruts, deep sand, and corrugated metal. Shortly after Mababe, an unexpected sight: a family of lions feasting on an elephant they had just killed. The legend of the Savuti lions is true!

A Golf stuck in the sand with all four wheels up to the chassis just before the road to Kachikau. I offered my help and made a couple of people happy with my tow strap and the Hilux in low gear. They had been there since the night before, had been able to sleep nearby, and told me that the locals were asking them for money to get the car out!

Self-drive safari along the Chobe River from Ngoma Gate: very sandy track, beautiful and not very touristy except as you approach Kasane. We spotted a magnificent pair of lions, which we were proud to point out to the other vehicles.

Day 20-21: Kasane and Victoria Falls
Relaxing and truly interesting boat safari on the Chobe River with crocodiles, buffalo, zebras, giraffes, etc.

Published on: 24 October 2023